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The question to ponder is what will happen if a Cardinal is parked on a side slope? If a tank is vented out its own wingtip, that wingtip could become the lowest point in the fuel system and let all the fuel out. But crossing the vents over the top they avoid that issue. It took them a couple of years to come to this conclusion... the early year or two didn't do it that way. This led to the POH requirement to always select the right tank when parking... those years were designed to have minimum risk in that setting.

Are you talking about the chrome arm to which the chute control attaches? That should come with your kit, but it's mounted down below the deck near the operator's left toe somewhere, not to the hood. It gets installed then left in place, so although I did install the blower for the first time myself, I don't recall details of that mounting point.

Problem is, most folks would want to park a flower pot in the wooden bucket, so letting in some water is a good thing!

Yes, along the way I upgraded from an STEC 60-2 to an STEC 3100. Great autopilot! Most (and all later) videos are recorded on a Drift Ghost camera, I have had several along the way. More details in this video: ruclips.net/video/gzmyFNhpu7A/видео.html They were wired directly into my intercom with a resistor voltage divider I custom built. One also needs a good microphone, which is my Lightspeed headsets. Thanks for the kind words!

These weights came from Craftsman across the years. I had a couple to start with and my father in law had a few more. I'm not sure where you'd get them now... farm auctions perhaps! These kinds of things are built to fit, so I'd hate to try to make one remotely from the target tractor. Plus there's shipping.. heavy stuff! I would probably help a friend with one, but don't plan to build to order. Perhaps you can find a retired mechanical engineer like me near you who would like a project! We are out there...

@@cardinalflyer Thank you for the reply. I'll figure it out.

My, what a diplomat you are! ;-/ Nice thing about working on the floor is that it is pretty hard to drop things very far from there. Worth considering on very heavy multi-thousand dollar projects.

That could work! It would require some adjusting, possibly each time it was installed. Once and done has advantages.

That's always a trade-off, lots to say but don't want to distract. Here's a hint... if you press the space bar the video will pause to give you time to read the text. Hope that helps!

I was watching on my phone. It puts a big hash pause over the text...lol Good tip, though, for when I'm watching on my laptop. I subscribed, so I can soak up as much info about 177 as possible. Reading your Cardinal website also. Thanks agian.

No, this is far too intrusive for the pre-buy process. And there is no need, as we can see the spar from the back seat with the ceiling panel removed to confirm that the AD was properly complied with. That should dispel all concerns with this item. I do pre-buys and have a Buyer's Assistance service, check out the process at cardinalinspections.com

@cardinalflyer OK, greatly appreciate you answering that question. I was kind of thinking it was too intrusive. I'm in the research phase of the models I'm interested in. Made the mistake of selling my 172 while working on my RV-10 build. I'm reduced to renting, and it's been a nightmare. Decided to get another GA until I finish my project.

Yes, that is a strange thing about the POH starting procedure. If your mixture disks are in good shape it probably won't matter, but there's a risk of flooding if the boost pump is on. It says not to use it if warm... certainly true. Personally I only use the emergency pump for a few seconds, to prime when cold, then leave it off.

It is 2 stage, I find it clogs less often than others I have used, but in very wet snow anything will clog. Most often if it does clog I try to find some fresh snow to push in, often that blows out the clog. On those very wet days it can be annoying, but again I don't think any others are better. Some suggest using silicon spray or other products inside the chute to try to help, I've never found much difference from doing that. But I do try to keep it painted: sand, prime and paint when the chips build up.

I see you in my stats! Watch time on that video jumps up in November. :-) I watch it too every year.

How may times are you going to make the same general comment? You are incorrect on several levels here... you would do well to not try to mislead people! Read my answer to your last comment for specific answers.

You seem to have misunderstood on several counts. The coatings preferred by the AD are epoxy primer and Corban... zinc chromate is an option but not preferred, and that's not the last coat. Also, Alodine is only required if not already done. At the time of this video my spar was still as original, although with Corban applied during one of the SEL stages. No one had spent time cleaning or alodining.... that's how it has been for some 50 some years. After this video I cleaned off the Corban, epoxy primed then re-applied Corban, along with paperwork as mentioned. As for misleading, I clearly said this was inspection was done of part of the overall process. In my case this was the only portion which required writing a check, but most other people won't be in a position to avoid hiring some of the work done or buying materials for the process. Check out my video about the headliner removal for more information on the overall process. ruclips.net/video/gcH5QVu9rhI/видео.html As for whether it's a big deal, that will depend on what they find!

I was sent your video from a pilot who now believes his AD inspection should only cost 200 dollars. His spar was in bad shape and required a lot of work. I told him you probably had the SIL done first leaving only the eddy current inspection.

I know that feeling! I do the same just about every year...

Just make sure everything is seated properly and the best is seated fully in the pulleys and is run correctly. At times I have fussed with the idler pulley assembly to get it's motion correct... that arm could be stronger and can bend down. If you continue to have trouble you might ask your local JD Farm dealer to help, they often have an R&R service and see enough of them to know what it should be like.

@@cardinalflyer thank you!

Are you referring to the Corban or the Alodyne? The Alodyne stayed on through the whole process. There was no need to remove the CorBan for inspection, but I could not put the epoxy on over the CorBan. So the Corban needed to come off just to get the layers into the proper order.

So far just once, for the 2023 AD.

You have to do what the AD says to do... please don't get your definitive technical requirements from RUclips! Ultimately, the spar needs Alodyne (Bonderite), then Epoxy primer (or Zinc Chromate), then Corban. Personally I've seen too many zinc chromate surfaces which did not hold up well over multiple decades, so I stuck with the epoxy.

I don't have that handy... hopefully your dealer could help you with applicability? Or perhaps there's another way to mount them? I've had several generations... 116, LX176.. some of them look like they will never fit together until you sort them out. Good luck!

The screws are short, so not many turns required. Many have a tiny head, and the angles can be tricky. A powered tool really would not save much time, and getting the torque correct is an important detail.

There's the little detail of the wing that fell off a 210 in Australia... the AD turned out better than it could have, and in some ways its good to know we're all safe.

That's why they call it CAD, right? Cardboard Aided Design.

I do the prop check also at the lower RPM. It still affects RPM in the same way, I really don't see any reason to have the RPM higher. I would not call it a recommendation, though, only what I do.

Yes, I've found that adding weight helps me keep moving on my particular property. Chains would also work, but they tear up the driveway surface. Rubber chains work, but are a pain to get on. The bracket is doing very well, works out perfectly. I had an earlier one which was more challenging to get on and off and held less weight, so this was my second design. I did a video on it: ruclips.net/video/VTgUK83Cmnw/видео.html

No, but I help people find good Cardinals! More info here: cardinalinspections.com/buy.php

I'll bet you loosened the corners, as discussed in the video? Glad it worked for you!

@@cardinalflyer yes, I had to loosen the front corners of the rear headliner. I had to loosen the window sections, but I didn’t remove them.